Ah, motor oils. A subject that invites plenty of opinions, from brands and types to weight, or more specifically, the viscosity. The last is in itself full of polarising viewpoints – is thinner the way to go, or is thicker better?
Take a look around and you’ll find that fill requirements for modern engines now specify lighter weight multi-grade oils. While 20W-50 viscosity oils were the definition decades ago, these days you’ll find 5W-30 or 10W-30 oils being commonplace, and for good reason. Car engines have gotten much better over the years, with tighter tolerances, and lighter oils take advantage of these to offer better performance and efficiency.
But, can you go to 0W? You might hear lines like “too thin, and it’ll evaporate,” or that perennial favourite, “don’t, the engine will blow,” but the reality is that unless you have an archaic clunker, your car will be able to use a 0W-30 multi-grade without suffering any catastrophic effects.
In this video, the #KemonCrew go through thick and thin in their usual lubricious manner, but it’s left to our man Hafriz Shah to dispense the legitimate advice. Watch the video for his explanation on why thinner doesn’t mean less protection. To purchase Shell Helix Power or Protect, check out Shell Authorised Workshops, here.
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1. The new engine oil is suutble for cars that have been made in 2002 onwards;
2. The 2nd numbers is important, not the number followed by the W
So, cars more than 20 years? Still not suitable isn’t it.
Forced Induction engine not recommended to use thin lubricant due to high heat and high friction
This is an advert basically saying buy the most expensive oil available in the range. That begs the question why have lower/cheaper variants in the first place.
No all is green with thinner oil, especially older engines. Yes thinner means it can get to ‘finer’ places… This also include gasket cracks. End up, u may have oil leak issue that u don’t see with say 10w
W mean winter. The W number is the lubricant’s viscousity in cold winter temperature. The next number after the dash is relevant to our local need, 20, 30, 40, 50. In our case there’s nothing wrong using 0w-30 or 10w-30, it is the same. But not the same can be said if using 0w-50 and 0w-20. The 50 is thicker than 20. What you are saying about leaking is on the latter.
For archaic 30 year old car, the newer full synth lubricant contains more detergent and additive to remove the carbon and to clean the engine. Furthermore, the molecule for mineral based lubricants is not uniform, which tend to cover the leakage at all the gasket and sealant.
Logically, this is why leaking problem is common for these cars when switching to the new gen lubricant.
The tips is to replace all gasket and sealant before switching to the new gen lubricant.
You know why mineral 20w-50 is much much cheaper than 0w-20 oil right?
I think there’s a common misconception about the oil specifications.
The numbers are a measure of viscosity (“thickness”)
1. First number is the viscosity at 0 degrees celcius. It is not of importance to us because it never gets to that temperature in Malaysia, unless you have a freezer as a garage.
2. The second number is the viscosity at regular operating temperatures. This number is more relevant to our climate.
Newer cars have tighter clearance and thus requires lower viscosity oils. Most modern cars (from 2000
model year on) can operate on fairly thin oils.
But, always follow the manufacturer’s recommendation. They engineered the engine for a reason.
Ultimately, I think the most important thing is focusing on whether you’re getting mineral vs semi-synthetic vs full synthetic.
Full synthetic will always be the way to go as they have more “detergents” to better clean your engine, it also has properties to ensure that there’s less knock, and they have additives that help “stick” the oil to the walls of the cylinders at all times, making cold starts a lot less damaging.
And truth be told, the best thing you can do is to switch out your oil more frequently if you want to prolong the life of your engine. Every 8000km or 6 months, whichever comes first. (Oil degrades with time even when not driven)
Peace and Gong Xi Fat Chai.
When EVs become much more common on the roads, it won’t matter any more.
Just follow manufacturer recommended specs, that simple.
I thought that “W” is meant for viscosity of engine oil when it is winter, like when it is -20°C. No matter what “W” grade it is, it doesn’t affect us Malaysian. We should look at the 0W-“20” for viscosity during engine operation, which is about 80-100°C. Now there are 0W-16, 0W-20, 5W-30 and 5W-40, the more common engine oil viscosity found in market.
The actual concern regarding engine oil viscosity now is can I use the lower viscosity engine oil listed in the owner’s manual without suffering engine problem in Malaysia, e.g. Mazda 2 DJ owner’s manual mentioned 0W-20 or 5W-30, but SC only recommend 5W-30 because 0W-20 is “too thin” for our weather. What’s your take on this?
Hafiz
Pls review/comment on the second digit
Diff between 5w-30 vs 5w-40
At lot of misconception ie higher second digit better for hard driving etc.
Any idea
Typically 5w40 or 5w50 is for trucks or race cars….however in older cars that originally called for 10w40…the newer 5w40 works great….but their are exceptions…any older car rope type seals (most all Buicks v6 engines made before 1980 for example) synthetic will leak like a hole in a bucket…when converted to rubber seals (rear main, front cover, and intake) synthetic is ok to use
I am no machanic, but 0w30 and 5w-30 still got some differences in viscosity. 0w despite rated for winter will still make the oil more thinner compare to 5w30 or 10w30.
In my opinion and research, many ppl tend to forget why use a higher number of viscosity. eg. why use 40 instead of 30. 30 maybe = Ambient 40 degrees Celcius or less. 40 maybe = 50 degrees Celcius or less. As the engine heats up to its optimum or you had driven long hrs, the oil will not be thinner because too thin may not be good for your car. Malaysia ambient temperature is highest around 40 depending on season. Anyway, still best to follow manufacturer spec. eg. BMW can run on 30 and 40. don’t use 10w (Usually Semi-Synthetic). 5w, 0w is ok. Don’t use 50. dont use below 30. too thin may cause leak. once leak, it will continue to leak :(
I use to work in the industry. There is very little that differentiates one oil from another in today’s market place. The common thread is the API license logo. That certifies the oil in the bottle meets a minimum standard set forth by the API and is supported by a multitude of standardized engine and bench testing performed by the additive companies who supply the oil companies. Synthetic base oils are superior to petroleum base oils because they are very stable. Petroleum base oil contains aromatics which are “light ends” of the oil similar to vapors given off by gasoline. The lighter or thinner the base oil the more aromatic it becomes. These light ends are problematic when the oil is working because they burn up causing varnish to build up in the engine. They are more stable then they use to be but are not as nearly robust as synthetics. Synthetic base oil has very little to none aromatics so it is more stable. In addition to the additive package the component that creates a mulitiviscosity oil is the viscosity Index improver, VI improver for short. VI improver is basically liquid rubber. As it gets hot it swells changing the viscosity from to a 0w or 5W to a 20 or 30 weight. The best oils use short molecular change VI improvers. They don’t sheer down. Long chain VI improvers get sheered or cut as they go through the engine.
The end
My MB uses full synthetic 0W-40. That what factory wants and I use it all time.
Hi, i got 2014 subaru xv with 100000 millage, the oil cap on the engine says 0w20 but the service centers recommended 5w30, what happens if i use the 0w20?